Marshals, mi xao and Miss Laura’s: Is Fort Smith Cool?

Arkansas Division of Parks, Heritage and Tourism

Anyone who wrote Fort Smith’s obituary when town’s manufacturing jobs dwindled about 15 years in the past ought to assume once more. Regardless of dwelling within the shadow of its trendier neighbors to the north (we see you, Bentonville), Arkansas’s frontier city and third-largest metropolis had a lot taking place on a Saturday in Might that I used to be left questioning “Is Fort Smith cool?” On a heat Saturday, the downtown space brimmed with folks due to an infinite bike rally that introduced boatloads of bikes and plenty of leather-based. The bikers (all amiable, defying stereotypes) walked alongside the downtown streets, packed a patio for stay music and visited native historic websites. I did likewise, and after a day exploring Fort Smith’s frontier historical past and eclectic eating scene, left with regrets that I didn’t have extra time to see all The Fort needed to supply. 

Belle Starr Antiques and Classic Market
410 N. B St.

Possibly it was the massive colourful mural of frontier lawman Bass Reeves on the aspect of the constructing — certainly one of many artsy murals on the town — however one thing compelled me, on impulse, to tug into this antiques market named for a well-known feminine outlaw who frolicked with the likes of Jesse James. Inside, I discovered some relics that piqued my curiosity (outdated indicators for beer and fuel stations) and a few that didn’t (a portray of a rooster). I perused the vinyl information searching for a Jimmy Buffett album for my Parrothead spouse however didn’t discover one. An outdated album of Arkansas native Glen Campbell’s watched over me as I shuffled by way of the outdated information. On my manner out, two workers advised me a little bit concerning the gun-wielding Starr and stated she occurred to be the mom of Pearl Starr, an area prostitute who labored at a former brothel close by. 

Griffin Coop

Miss Laura’s Customer Heart
2 N. B St.

In my estimation, Miss Laura’s Social Membership is essentially the most fascinating place within the state’s most fascinating metropolis. Within the early 1900s, Fort Smith had a Crimson-Gentle District the place prostitution was authorized and controlled, and the place workers have been required to acquire enterprise permits to permit them to ply their commerce. At this time, Miss Laura’s is open for excursions and serves as town’s customer heart. My tour information, a really educated girl named Jacqulyn West, stated her baby tells others that their mom works in a brothel — and, in fact, doesn’t present any extra context. Kudos to the child for having humorousness. West described Fort Smith’s bordello previous in nice element and stated the city had about seven authorized brothels at one time. Miss Laura’s was the highest-end bordello of the bunch, although, and clients wanted a proper suggestion to change into a patron. Miss Laura’s operated as a brothel from 1904 to 1948, though prostitution was technically outlawed within the metropolis in 1924. The home operated with 9 rooms, 10 in case you rely the madam’s, and the women lived in the home fulltime — versus different homes, the place workers doubtless labored in shifts. Over time the home fell into disrepair however a short-lived restaurant enterprise, additionally referred to as Miss Laura’s Social membership, gave it the TLC it wanted to carry it again to life. The home has a number of rooms adorned as they might have been in the course of the brothel’s heyday. Objects on show embody a condom case that might have carried reusable condoms (yep, you learn that appropriately), offered as a contraband contraceptive; condoms weren’t authorized for household planning functions on the time. Among the rooms upstairs are used as workplaces immediately, which looks as if a missed alternative to inform extra of the story of the one Arkansas bordello on the Nationwide Register of Historic Locations. West stated a present store is on the cusp of  opening. 

Griffin Coop

Vinnie’s Pies 
200 N. thirteenth St.

As many purchasers of Miss Laura’s undoubtedly did, I labored up fairly an urge for food on the brothel. I wound my manner by way of some momentary road closures, ultimately touchdown at a New York-style pizzeria referred to as Vinnie’s Pies. Out there on the market by the slice have been pepperoni, buffalo hen, spicy Sicilian and a number of other others. I settled on 4 slices and a few garlic knots, greater than sufficient for 2 folks. Many of the slices have been within the huge triangular New York pizza fashion that requires the eater to fold it to get it from plate to mouth. One of many slices was a thicker Sicilian fashion, reduce into an oblong form. The joint was relaxed and unpretentious, with a classic NBA Jam arcade recreation — the type of place you’d go for a household night time, an after-work grasp with co-workers or an end-of-season trophy presentation for a ball workforce. 

Griffin Coop

La Nueva Michoacana 
1820 S. C St.

The digital menu on this vibrant Mexican ice cream store whizzes by manner too quick to completely contemplate your choices, so I ordered the Krazy Pineapple ($10) and watched with amazement as the lady behind the counter loaded increasingly more gadgets right into a hollowed-out pineapple half. The youthful girl on the register advised me to not fear concerning the darkish pink stuff being brushed onto the fruits and candies within the pineapple, assuring me it was not spicy. (Later, I’d conclude that spicy is within the palate of the beholder; order accordingly.) The pineapple monstrosity had gummy bears, a rolled-up tape sweet that may have been tamarind-flavored, savory chips, pineapple chunks, crunchy nuts and far more. I didn’t like it, however I’m undoubtedly glad I attempted it. I additionally had a pleasant strawberry-coconut-kiwi popsicle (about $3.50) from a freezer stocked with a large assortment of popsicles and flavors. 

U.S. Marshals Museum
789 Riverfront Drive 

After lunch, my subsequent cease was Fort Smith’s predominant attraction: the Marshals Museum, which is located downtown on a picturesque financial institution of the Arkansas River. The museum, which opened final yr, appeared to take without end to construct after the Feds chosen Fort Smith because the museum web site in 2007. The endurance and persistence paid off, although. The massive foyer with its excessive ceiling and pure mild, is polished and alluring. On the day I visited, admission was free (it’s usually $15 for adults) and the foyer was crammed with vintage bikes, presumably a part of a contest. I headed over to the gallery to take a look at the displays, which inform the story of the marshals from their formation within the nation’s early days to their position defending folks in the course of the civil rights motion of the Nineteen Fifties and Sixties. There are references to the marshals’ (regrettable) requirement to help slave house owners in monitoring down fugitive slaves but additionally a nod to Frederick Douglass, who turned the primary Black federal marshal. There are interactive displays and a wall devoted to the marshals’ depictions in in style tradition in addition to a few of the marshals’ notable work in Arkansas. I got here away wishing I had devoted extra time to the museum; a nerd like myself might have simply spent greater than an hour going by way of all of the historical past and displays. In case you linger longer than I did and want a relaxation earlier than heading out, the museum additionally has a restaurant with loads of seating.

Inexperienced Papaya
4412 Grand Ave. 

Discovering that Pad Thai Delicacies, my best choice amongst Fort Smith’s Southeast Asian eating places, was closed for Lao New Yr, I headed to Inexperienced Papaya, the place the audio system performed instrumental variations of acquainted songs (“How Do I Stay” by Lee Ann Rimes, for instance) and a fish tank adorned the again wall. Seeking to strive a Vietnamese dish aside from pho, I landed on the mi xao tofu (stir-fried egg noodles with tofu and greens for $10.95) and cha gio (two fried egg rolls for $3.95). I would keep on with the pho subsequent time; the noodle dish was a little bit greasy for my liking. Penciled in for my subsequent go to: a restaurant referred to as Noodles and Crawfish.  

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Extra to see in Fort Smith

The Bakery District 
70 S. Seventh St. 

This reworked former bakery contains meals distributors, an indie e-book store, a bar, a co-working area and common occasions like yoga and trivia. 

Ed Walker’s drive-in & restaurant
1500 Towson Ave. 

As well-known for its hefty French dip sandwiches as it’s for being one of many final relics within the nation the place you will get carhop service for beer, Ed Walker’s is must-do retro.

Temple Stay 
200 N. eleventh St. 

This former Masonic Temple has been transformed right into a live performance venue that may host reveals by The Wallflowers, Massive Dangerous Voodoo Daddy, John Michael Montgomery and extra this fall. 

Fort Smith Regional Artwork Museum
1601 Rogers Ave.  

RAM, which gives free admission, has a everlasting assortment, exhibitions, courses for adults and children, and lectures. 

Fort Smith Nationwide Historic Website 
301 Parker Ave. 

Run by the Nationwide Park Service, this web site tells the story of Fort Smith’s position on the frontier of the Wild Wild West. 

Chaffee Crossing Space 
7500 Fort Chaffee Blvd. 

This new growth features a bar in a former delivery container, a distillery and whiskey tasting room, and an Italian restaurant specializing in Napolitano-style pizza. 

Peacemaker Pageant 
121 Riverfront Drive

This annual music pageant on the Arkansas River can be held Oct. 11-12 with headliners 49 Winchester and Morgan Wade. 

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